What Goes Around Comes Around

 

QUESTION: For the last couple of years, I’ve been buying vintage kitchen utensils. At first, I had planned to use them to decorate my Mid-Century Modern kitchen, but I got hooked on them and now purchase them not only at flea markets but online. Some I recognize, others I don’t. What types of gadgets did women use in their kitchen? And are these old utensils worth collecting?

ANSWER: Kitchen gadgets are a popular collectible. And what’s interesting about them is that most are still usable in today’s kitchen. Even with all the electric and electronic devices available today, there are just some things that need to be done by hand, preferably with some sort of gadget. The proliferation of gadgets advertised on T.V., the Internet, and social media attests to this.

There are dozens of quirky looking utensils—graters, slicers, ice cream scoops, ice picks, juicers, peelers, sharpeners, mashers, ricers, strainers, sifters, scoops, scales, and ladles. The list is almost endless.

All these utensils—from food mincers, pitters, and corers to spiral whisks and jar lifters—eased even the most basic of a housewife's culinary chores. Ingenious kitchen gadgets made exacting tasks—such as defining the outer edges of a pie crust with a pie crimper—a pleasure. Colored handles added to their attraction.

During the late 19th century, the modernization of the American kitchen had begun. The kitchen was a place where families gathered informally to cook and bake, make butter, can and preserve fruits and vegetables, peel potatoes, dry herbs, and wash dishes. And it took a variety of utensils to complete these jobs.

From the 1920's through the 1940's, large and small companies manufactured  hundreds of these gadgets, trying to help make kitchen work easier and more colorful. Brightly painted cooking utensils of the 1920s brought the first dab of color into American kitchens. Apple green led the cutlery color wheel, followed by Mandarin red. 

What could be better than homemade pie with homemade crust? Most pie crimpers had wooden handles and resembled small versions of today's pizza cutters Whalers often carved them of whale ivory for their wives and sweethearts back home. By the 20th century, makers introduced metal with the wood. Of course, there were many other baking gadgets like dough blenders, pie lifters, rolling pins, and spatulas. 

Before food processors and electric beaters, there were efficient hand and mechanical beaters. Among these were a variety of wooden handled spiral whisks, flat wire whips, and, of course, those very efficient rotary beaters. The forerunner to the food processor was the glass pitcher beater which came in variety of shapes and sizes.

Old choppers and mincers had wooden handles and stainless steel curved blades. Many of the old ones, made of glass, wood, or steel, were more durable. Some glass jar choppers and mincers had handles to turn, making the work easier and faster. Of course, cooks also used grinders mounted to the corner of the kitchen table. Simply by putting almost anything into the wide opening at the top and turning the handle, they could grind meat, nuts, and berries.

Department stores such as Abraham & Straus, Macy's,, and Wanamaker's led the market selling colorful vintage utensils and other kitchen paraphernalia. 

Many small businesses produced these labor-saving utensils. One of the most notable was A & J Manufacturing Company of Binghamton, New York. Colored utensils from A & J can be found at flea markets and antique shops and shows simply because these products proliferated nationally and internationally in the kitchen-cutlery market for nearly 40 years.

A & J began humbly in 1909 in the homes of Benjamin T. Ash and Edward H. Johnson, who lived in rural upstate New York. After creating and marketing their first product—a one-handed eggbeater—they added numerous other kitchen gadgets with natural wooden handles to their product line. By 1918, A & J had moved to a commercial building and employed 200 workers who cranked out some four million tools annually.

The company was the first to offer knives, spatulas, ladles, and other items in one package. 

These early 20th-century kitchen gadgets have a strong relationship to today’s “As-seen-on-TV”  gadgets, advertised on many of the retro channels. Take the one-hand blender. Except for its streamlined shape and lack of a colored handle, it’s very similar to Ash’s and West’s one-handed eggbeater. It puts a new spin on the old saying, “What goes around comes around.”

To read more articles on antiques, please visit the Antiques Articles section of my Web site.  And to stay up to the minute on antiques and collectibles, please join the over 30,000 readers by following my free online magazine, #TheAntiquesAlmanac. Learn more about "The Age of Photography" in the 2023 Holiday Edition, online now. And to read daily posts about unique objects from the past and their histories, like the #Antiques and More Collection on Facebook.

A Juicy Solution

QUESTION: I was visiting my grandmother the other day and noticed that when she needed some lemon juice for a dish she was preparing, she pulled out a funny looking contraption, placed half a lemon on it, and pushed down on the lemon while turning it slowly. The juice from the lemon flowed into a grove at the bottom. She then poured the juice into her pan and continued cooking. What is this device called and did everyone use them back in the day?

ANSWER: Younger Americans think lemon juice comes from those cute plastic lemons---or from fancy and expensive electric stainless steel appliances that sit on their kitchen counter. Many have never had to squeeze juice by hand, but it wasn't so very long ago when that's exactly what everyone had to do in order to have the lemon juice for a dish or a refreshing glass of OJ. But instead of an electric appliance, people used a reamer.

The French made the earliest reamer, registered in 1767, of nickel silver and porcelain. First produced in Europe, reamers later appeared in the U.S. European reamers were  some of the finest ever created, including those produced by the finest china companies, such as Limoges, Royal Bayreuth, R.S. Prussia, and Meissen.

Though Charles L. Tiffany offered a reamer at his Tiffany and Company store in New York in the early 1880s, the first juice extractor patented in the U.S. was on May 30,1865. This was actually a wooden juice press.

The hand-held lemon squeezer created by George Cornford patented the first hand-held, clear glass lemon squeezer on August 19,1884, and it resembled a darning egg. 

Before the turn of the 20th century, more inventors patented designs for their own juice squeezers. R.E. Bristow of Rockford, IIlinios, registered "The Ideal" on January 31, 1888. John Easley of Manhattan registered a hand-cranked reamer on July 10, 1888, which was the first of his many patents until 1900. In fact, reamer designers of the early to mid 1880s created intricate mechanical designs culminating in the creation of a model that first cut the fruit in half and then extracted the juice.

But these were too sophisticated for the average user. By the late 1880s and early 1890s, designs reverted back to single-piece glass reamers. The registered patent designs of Thomas Curley, whose design was called, what else, the "Curley." Easley came out with a three-piece model, and the Holmes Company gave the world the “Holmes,” which was made of glass. Still the design that finally remained for years to come was Arthur Bennet’s “Lemon Squeezer,” patented on February 16, 1909.

This one brings to mind the classic juice reamer. Made of one piece of glass, the "Lemon Squeezer" had a pointed, grooved center for twisting the fruit on to remove its juice. The juice ran into the shallow dish below the reamer part. The "Lemon Squeezer" also had a handle to 'hold for pouring and a spout.

The first reamers or juicers were for extracting lemon juice for cooking or for flavoring, not necessarily for juicing oranges for making orange juice. Though oranges are available year round now, in 1900 they were exotic and expensive.

But that changed in 1907 when Sunkist, established as the trademark for the California Fruit Grower's oranges, appeared on the market. By 1916, Sunkist began offering glass reamers as a way to promote their oranges. But orange juicers and lemon juicers weren’t the same. Lemon juicers didn’t need a "bowl" or area on the juicer to hold a large amount of juice, but the orange reamers did, which brought about a major change in the style of reamers.

Sunkist was the leader in design changes. Besides offering reamers with "juice receptacles," many of the Sunkist reamers also had embossed lettering, spelling out "Sunkist Oranges and Lemons" or "Sunkist-California Fruit Grower's Exchange.” Sunkist vigorously promoted them through department and variety stores, grocery outlets and by mail-order. Sunkist continued to offer reamers, many made by the McKee Glass Company, until 1961.

By the 1920s and 1930s, reamers became more colorful with the introduction of Depression Glass. In 1922, the Fly Glass Company introduced Pearl Glass, and by 1925 reamers could be purchased in a variety of colors, from Vaseline glass to amber, pink, and emerald green glass. The Great Depression produced more glass reamers  than ever before or after.

There were other produced in the 1930s, including the 'Servitor," the "Handy Andy," and the "Jiffy Juicer."  Though china reamers had been produced in Europe years before, it wasn’t until 1927 when Goebel registered their German ceramics and chinaware in the U.S. Though Goebel didn't begin making ceramic juicers in the U.S. until the late 1920s, ceramic reamers had been produced in America from 1910 and continued through 1938. In fact, by the end of the 1930s, the production of colored glass reamers had declined. 

The end of the reamer era occurred in 1939 as frozen orange juice hit grocer’s freezers.  Today, glass and ceramic reamers are the most popular with collectors.

To read more articles on antiques, please visit the Antiques Articles section of my Web site.  And to stay up to the minute on antiques and collectibles, please join the over 30,000 readers by following my free online magazine, #TheAntiquesAlmanac. Learn more about "folk art" in the 2023 Winter Edition, online now. And to read daily posts about unique objects from the past and their histories, like the #Antiques and More Collection on Facebook.