Flashing the Way to Popularity

 

QUESTION: I recently purchased a mug that seems to be made of cut glass with red band and gold decoration at a local antique coop. Is this ruby glass? 

ANSWER: What you have is a mug of ruby stained glass, in which artisans painted a piece of pressed glass with a solution that turned red after firing a second time. True ruby glass is red all the way through. Glass makers originally created the deep ruby red color by adding gold, but that was rather expensive, making this type of glass costly. 

Bohemian glass makers discovered ruby glass in the second half of the 17th century when Bohemian glass makers, in their effort to imitate Venetian glass, had only a colorless potash-lime glass with which to work. And although it could be decorated, colored glass wasn’t possible.

Then someone discovered that glass could be colored red by adding an oxide of gold to the formula. As it came out of the pot it was amber, but when articles made in it were reheated they became a clear and true red.

For a time this art seemed to have been lost, but Bohemian glass makers began making ruby glass again at the beginning of the 19th Century, but instead of being solid colored, they made pieces of colorless glass, then encased them with a thin layer of red.

Ruby flash was a less expensive way to produce the glass within the blowing process. Glassblowers would blow glass a bit, then cool it, after which they dipped it into molten red glass, producing a layer of red over the clear glass. The coating on the clear glass consisted of a chemical solution containing copper sulfide that glass makers baked in a kiln, turning the coating bright red. With ruby flash glass, the entire piece of clear class became covered in red glass. 

This allowed a glass company to make pressed glass “blanks” and sell them to finishing companies, whose artisans would engrave patterns in the red coating, revealing the clear glass underneath. It’s this flashed glass, made around 1850, that’s commonly known today. Because of its two layers of glass, as it were, ruby flash glass offered an opportunity for dramatic cutting and engraving, the pattern showing up in the clear glass against the ruby ground. American glass makers went to work to imitate it and called it “Bohemian.”

Sometimes, glass companies “flashed” entire sets of dinnerware, occasionally adding  touches of gold. Ruby flash’s popularity began to decline around 1929, probably due to the onset of the Great Depression.  

Of the various patterns of ruby flash glass, "King's Crown" was the most common.  Several different glass companies made a variation of King's Crown.  The name comes from the zig-zag design, like the top of a crown. Other popular patterns included  “Ruby Thumbprint,” “Prize,” “Crystal Wedding” “Heart Band.” 

While glass makers used ruby glass for decorative wares—vases, urns, bottles, bowls, candy dishes, etc. It was also used for tableware such as goblets, wines, carafes, cordial sets, finger-bowls, fruit bowls, compotes and the like. Glass makers also produced dresser pieces, such as perfume bottles and pomade jars, as well as lamps and candlesticks in the rich red glass.

Smaller items, sold as souvenirs, such as toothpick holders, tumblers, goblets, creamers and pitchers, were made in ruby-stained glass. Staining a piece of glass involved painting an already-pressed piece of clear pattern glass with a ruby-colored stain and reheating it to 1,000 degrees in a kiln which turned the coating bright red.

This enabled sellers to engrave a piece through its thin red coating with the name of a destination and the date, thus making the clear glass shine through. Glass makers created thousands of these small articles for the large expositions, such as the Chicago World’s Fair in 1893, as well as popular county fairs.

One of the more popular ruby stained patterns, Button Arches, introduced originally around 1898, continued in production until the 1960s and 1970s. The design consisted of slightly overlapping pointed arches around the bottom edges and covers of pieces, each arch containing tightly packed "buttons." 

To read more articles on antiques, please visit the Antiques Articles section of my Web site.  And to stay up to the minute on antiques and collectibles, please join the over 30,000 readers by following my free online magazine, #TheAntiquesAlmanac. Learn more about "Return to Toyland" in the 2024 Holiday Edition, online now. And to read daily posts about unique objects from the past and their histories, like the #Antiques and More Collection on Facebook.

Brooching the Subject

 

QUESTION: While antiquing on a recent weekend, I came across a shop with a display case full of antique brooches. And while I’ve seen old brooches before, I never saw this many together. That got me to wonder how the brooch came to be. What can you tell me about the origin and history of the brooch?

ANSWER: Brooches have a long history dating back to the Bronze Age, originally serving as  fasteners for clothing before evolving into decorative jewelry. Over the centuries, they have been made from various materials and have reflected changing fashions and social status. Brooches became especially popular during Victorian times.

Brooches have  usually been made of silver or gold, decorated with enamel or with gemstones and may have been solely ornamental or serve as a clothes fastener. As fashions in brooches changed quickly, they became historical indicators.  

Before the Middle Ages, brooches were called fibula. With a lack of buttons, they were necessary as clothes fasteners, but also acted as markers of social status for both men and women. During the Iron Age in Europe, metalworking technology advanced dramatically, including casting, metal bar-twisting and wire making. As early as 400 BCE,  Celtic craftsmen in Europe created fibulae decorated in red enamel and coral inlay.

Brooches first appeared in Britain in 600 BCE, lasting until 150 BCE. The most common brooch forms during this time were the bow, the plate, and the penannular brooch. Most of these were cast in one piece, with most from copper alloy or iron. The brooches of this era show Roman jewelry techniques, including repoussé, filigree, granulation, enameling, openwork and inlay. Color was the primary feature of brooches of this period. The precious stone most often used was the almandine, a burgundy variety of garnet, found in Europe and India. Designers would cover the entire surface of an object with the tiny geometric shapes of precious stones or enamel which artisans then polished flat until they were flush with the cloisonné settings, giving the appearance of a tiny stained glass window.

Artisans used many variations in their brooch designs---geometric decoration, intricate patterns, abstract designs from nature, bird motifs and running scrolls. Intertwined beasts were often a signature feature of these intricately decorated brooches. Bow shaped, S-shaped, radiate-headed and decorated disc brooches were the most common styles from the 5th through the 7th centuries. 

Circular brooches first appeared in England in the middle of the 5th century. And by the end of the 6th century, the circular form had become the preferred brooch shape.

Celtic brooches represent a tradition of elaborately decorated penannular and pseudo-penannular types developed in early medieval Ireland and Scotland. However, certain characteristics of Celtic jewelry, such as inlaid millefiori glass and curvilinear styles, have more in common with ancient brooches than contemporary Anglo-Saxon jewelry. 

Scandinavian brooches, generally made of silver and copper alloy, embraced the Germanic animal style of decoration in the Middle Ages. This decorative style originated in Denmark in the late 5th century as a response to late Roman metalwork. 

Viking craftsmen decorated their brooches in one or more of the Viking styles---Oseberg, Borre, Jellinge, Mammen, Ringerike and Urnes. Viking brooches came in seven different forms---circular, bird-shaped, oval, equal-armed, trefoil, lozenge-shaped, and domed disc. Designs featured a variety of decoration, including interlaced gripping beasts, single animal motifs, ribbon-shaped animals, knot and ring-chain patterns, tendrils, and leaf, beast and bird motifs.

Both men and women wore brooches during the late medieval period from 1300 to 1500. Brooches were star-shaped, pentagonal, lobed, wheel, heart-shaped, and ring.  Smaller than other brooches, ring brooches often fastened clothing at the neck. Brooch decoration usually consisted of a simple inscription or gems applied to a gold or silver base. Inscriptions of love, friendship and faith were a typical of ring brooches of this time. Heart-shaped brooches were a popular gift between lovers or friends.

The Renaissance, lasting from 1300 to 1600, was a time of wealth and opulence in the Mediterranean region. Elaborate brooches covered in emeralds, diamonds, rubies, amethyst and topaz or pearls were in fashion, especially with the upper classes.  Brooches with religious motifs and enameled miniature portraits were also popular.

By the beginning of the 18th century ornate brooches made of gold and silver with complex designs were fashionable. By the mid- to late 1700s, simpler forms and designs were more common, with simpler themes of nature, bows, miniature portraits and animals.  

Brooches made during the Neoclassical Period, between 1760 and 1830, featured  classical themes of ancient Greece and Rome. The main difference between Renaissance brooches and Neoclassical jones were that artisans created Renaissance brooches primarily for the upper class and Neoclassical ones for the general public. 

English pottery manufacturer Josiah Wedgwood produced cameo brooches in black basalt and jasper. Cameos and brooches with classical scenes were fashionable during this period.

Cameos, locket brooches, flowers, nature, animal and hearts were popular in the early Victorian era. When Victoria's husband, Prince Albert, died in 1861, brooch design changed to reflect the queen in mourning. Styles turned heavier and more somber, using materials like black enamel, jet, and black onyx.

It was fashionable during this period to incorporate hair and portraiture into a brooch. The practice began as an expression of mourning, then expanded to keepsakes of loved ones who were living. Artisans encased human hair encased within a brooch or braided and wove it into a band to which they attached clasps.

By the early 20th century, brooches appeared with diamonds, typically with platinum or white gold, and colored gemstones or pearls. Popular brooch forms included bows, ribbons, swags, and garlands, all in the delicate new style.

The Art Deco style found a place in modern brooch design. Common decoration included geometric shapes, abstract designs, designs from Cubism, Fauvism, and art motifs from Egypt and India. Artisans used black onyx, coral, quartz, lapis and carnelian along with diamonds, rubies, emeralds, and sapphires. 

To read more articles on antiques, please visit the Antiques Articles section of my Web site.  And to stay up to the minute on antiques and collectibles, please join the over 30,000 readers by following my free online magazine, #TheAntiquesAlmanac. Learn more about "Return to Toyland" in the 2024 Holiday Edition, online now. And to read daily posts about unique objects from the past and their histories, like the #Antiques and More Collection on Facebook.