QUESTION: At a recent antique show, I discovered a dealer with a display of unusual antiques. The sign on his booth said “Epergnes and Plateaus.” When I asked him what the many highly polished silver and silverplate and glass pieces were used for, he replied that they were centerpieces from the 19th century. While I couldn’t see a use for either type of ware in today’s casual lifestyle, I was intrigued. He couldn’t tell me very much about their history. What can you tell me about epergnes and plateaus? Are they still being used today?
ANSWER: Nothing evokes the elegance of the Gilded Age as epergnes and plateaus. While the average person probably has never heard of them, wealthy hosts, who loved to show off to others in their class, would have seen them grace the tables at dinner parties in the late 18th and 19th centuries. The epergne became the highlight of these centerpieces. And to help reflect the candlelight on the table, it often sat on a mirrored glass plateau.
An epergne is a centerpiece which may be used to serve food, as well. At first they were long and low, with a bowl in the center and sweetmeat dishes on either end. Later models often had great height, with a fruit or flower dish in the center surrounded by hanging baskets. These hanging basket dishes could be used to serve nuts or candies. However, a piece like this would most likely have been used for decoration.
Epergnes came in clear glass, cut class in all sorts of colors and decorations, as well as both regular and Sheffield silver plate and, occasionally, sterling silver.
Hostesses used plateaus, low, flat mirrored glass platforms, on the other hand, to serve light buffets, cookies and cakes, candies and hors d’oeuvres. They usually came with five serving bowls, often used for chips and dip. But the most important utilitarian use for plateaus was to reflect light from candles on the table.
Both plateaus and epergnes were symbols of wealth. Craftsmen used exotic animals to decorate them, fantasizing about what they looked like because they didn’t have prior knowledge.
Centerpieces for fruit and flowers were in great demand in the 19th century. Epergnes and plateaus allowed the designer to use his imagination and ingenuity both in the design and workmanship. Some featured Roman chariots drawn by cupids. Bas reliefs ornamented others. Craftsmen burnished the metal and touched the edges and rims with gold. Bowls hung from trees and vines or were supported by classic male or female figures.
The typical epergne usually consisted of a tall fruit dish on a metal stand with two lower matching dishes. One by Reed and Barton had a peacock drawing a chariot which held a glass container for flowers. Another featured a rowboat holding children, while Meriden Britannia made a delicate sailboat set on a plateau. A bowl for fruit was set on a pedestal from which sprang a decorative vine-entwined arm holding a cornucopia-shaped glass vase for flowers.
Craftsmen on both sides of the Atlantic fashioned epergnes, with the fanciest coming from France. Some featured a number of levels, with several shelves. Others had base consisting of a classic figure or exotic animal with dish or vases resting atop its head. Most silver companies made epergnes with sterling as well as gold decoration.
The English made epergnes as early as the 1860s in Sheffield plate. To complement some of their most elaborate epergnes, manufacturers created plateaus of all shapes and sizes—oval, round, and rectangular—with gadroon or fluted borders in plain or satin finish. They also made them with repousse borders and fancy corners to complement the epergne designs.
The English made epergnes as early as the 1860s in Sheffield plate. To complement some of their most elaborate epergnes, manufacturers created plateaus of all shapes and sizes—oval, round, and rectangular—with gadroon or fluted borders in plain or satin finish. They also made them with repousse borders and fancy corners to complement the epergne designs.
By the mid-1870s, the introduction of silverplate by the Meriden Company stimulated the taste for beautiful pieces at a lower cost. Epergnes and plateaus produced in silverplate became popular on both sides of the Atlantic. However, the popularity of silverplate only lasted until the late 19th century when the falling price of silver made it possible for those who wanted silver epergnes to buy sterling.
As ornate silver epergnes lost favor with the public for table centerpieces, the simpler glass epergnes came into style. After 1850, glass epergnes became popular, especially those made of frosted glass and opaque milk glass.
The Sandwich Glass Factory and the New England Glass Company, two American firms that both made epergnes. The former’s 1870 catalog offered dainty chalices of fragile glass springing up around a central vase and sometimes cone shaped glass baskets hanging from metal scrolls. Only the smallest flowers and most delicate ferns could be placed in these dainty baskets. While these companies usually made their epergnes of colored glass, in later years, they began to produce ones with clear glass etched bowls, highlighted in gold.
As the Victorian era came to a close, low bowls of ornamental glass, known as berry bowls, began to replace the larger epergnes, which seemed so high and spreading that they seemed more suitable for formal dinners or banquets. It was a matter of convenience, for one thing, which made hostesses decide in favor of these glass berry bowls. They could fill them with fruit or flowers and leave them on the table throughout the meal.
Ornamental glass manufacturers like Fenton made berry bowls in many colors and types of glass, with some having two colors of glass fused together so that the lining and exterior surface formed a contrast in color. For example, they lined white opaque glass bowls with green, pink, deep rose; blue, amethyst, brownish-orange, apricot, or yellow glass. They applied a frosted surface to red glass bowls, giving them a satin-like finish.
Though many ruffled-edge epergne berry bowls can be from 9 to 12 inches in diameter, some companies made them as small as 4 to 5 inches across. Glassmakers made them in various shapes with a variety of edges to go with the overall design of individual epergnes. They gave some a wavy, plaited edge while on others they used large petals which had a twist in the glass near the point of each petal.
Visitors to the Columbian Exposition of 1893 in Chicago could purchase ruffled-edge berry bowls as souvenirs and gifts to relatives and friends. Women also loved to give these colorful and ornate dishes as wedding gifts. Often, they came mounted in a silver plated frame and made a striking table centerpiece, though not as large and elaborate as the traditional epergne.
After a decline in the use of epergnes at the turn of the 20th century, the makers of carnival glass revived an interest in them by contributing some colorful variations to the traditional epergne designs. The Dugan Glass Company of Indiana, Pennsylvania, made a fishnet epergne using carnival glass. At the same time, the Sowerby Glass Company of Gateshead, England, made a fountain epergne, with glass holders in a sterling frame. The clear glass lilies of this epergne had twisted bases with fluted tops that were marigold in color. One of the rarest carnival glass epergnes, a four-lily version worth over $1,000 in today’s market, was made by Fenton-Imperial Glass Company.
While epergnes and plateaus may have generally subsided in use, caters to large events like cocktail parties and banquets often use berry bowl epergnes and mirror glass plateaus to display canapes on elaborate buffet tables.
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