Managing Your Collections

 

QUESTION: I’ve been collecting antiques and collectibles for the past 30 years. Now that I’m getting older, I’m looking to sell off some of my items but I have little information on items in my collections. What is the best way to document my collections?

ANSWER: Failing to document their collections is more common than you may think. Many people enjoy the fun of collecting antiques and collectibles but don’t take the time to manage their collections. And many seniors, seeking to downsize, all of a sudden want to sell some of their items. They often try in vain to get valuations for their items online. But without previously documenting their collections, this can be a challenge.

Those who are just starting collections should record a description and history of each item, as well as the date purchased and the price paid. Those managing their collections years after purchase may have a harder time of gathering information, but with today’s technology, it’s easier than ever. One thing they may not have is the date of purchase and price paid—two very important facts when determining current value.

Collecting is a personal thing and most people do it for sheer enjoyment. They choose some objects carefully to build or enhance their collections, acquire others to use everyday, and inherit still others. While collectors treasure each item in their collections, many don’t understand the appeal or the value of it. 

Over the last couple of decades, the value of some antiques has fallen while that of some collectibles has risen. What many collectors lack is a comprehensive record, with supporting documents, of objects they own. As antiques increase in value, it’s important to know their provenance. While most people don’t think of their prized objects as part of their tangible financial assets, the IRS, insurance companies, banks, and courts do.

"To document" means to create a record that thoroughly describes an object and which also contains related documents about it, and keep together this record and supporting information on each object. 

A collector may already have some types of documents or can easily acquire them, such as a bill of sale, a note accompanying a gift, a snapshot, a printed description, a program from an exhibit, biographical information on the artist or maker, a description and picture of a similar object perhaps from a newspaper, magazine, or the Internet, a copy of a mark on the object, and others.

The objects in specialized  collections— furniture, dolls, quilts, kitchen utensils, guns, tools, even sports and music memorabilia—are prime candidates for documentation. Museums document each object in their collections. So it’s only natural that collectors do the same for insurance purposes, family heritage, preparing for appraisal, tax benefits, and connoisseurship.

At the very least, a collector should know what he or she paid for each object in their collections. Some insurance companies require that jewelry and fine art be placed on a special schedule. Often they also require an appraisal for the most valuable pieces. 

In case of theft, loss or damage by fire, flood or national disasters, a collector needs to prove ownership of any object claimed and provide descriptions with supporting information in order to be compensated or to help the police identify and recover the stolen valuables. If a collector cannot do this, there’s a risk of losing compensation in addition to being permanently separated from the treasured object. The more adequate the proof is, the greater the chances that will be satisfying. It’s more difficult to document after a loss occurs, and perhaps it cannot be done at all.

Every home has objects of value—whether monetary, sentimental or family-related. Documenting can help people decide which objects they wish to give to certain heirs. Recording the provenance and capturing the family history associated with a particular object provides a more complete picture for both the collector and the heirs. 

If certain pieces have been handed down through the family, they may have family stories associated with them. It’s important not to depend on those stories being passed down verbally. They should be written down. Additionally, heirs often carelessly sell off family pieces or give them away because succeeding generations are unaware of their actual or sentimental value. This is often done in the haste to clear a house after a loved one’s death. Documenting can assure that certain pieces  remain in the family, or at least that someone will make an educated decision before selling or giving away a special object.

Insurance companies usually require that a collector or an heir provide them with a professional appraisal. However, not every object in your household needs to be appraised. Documenting can help decide which objects need to be appraised, plus it can also provide the appraiser with valuable information, thus saving time and reducing the cost of the appraisal. The appraisal then becomes part of the object’s documentation.

And If an object is sold or given to a museum or other institution, its documentation can provide detailed information from acquisition to sale or gift, providing a factual basis for tax benefits. Museums look upon documentation as a benefit, as it provides valuable family and cultural history about an object for its visitors. 

If not documentation exists, it’s important to begin with a simple search for it on the Internet. While it’s possible to get results using a simple keyword search, that may not reveal anything. An alternative would be to conduct an image search. Using the same keyword(s), click on the Images tab in the search page. This will result in photos of objects related to search words. Clicking on one or more that look like or similar to the object being researched will bring up the Web site associated with it. 

Patience is required when searching. It may take several different keywords to obtain any useful information. 

To get an idea about value, it’s possible to search for online antique auction sites and there search for an object using the same keyword(s). By searching several auctions for the sold prices, then averaging them, it’s possible to get an approximate current value for the object.

To read more articles on antiques, please visit the Antiques Articles section of my Web site.  And to stay up to the minute on antiques and collectibles, please join the over 30,000 readers by following my free online magazine, #TheAntiquesAlmanac. Learn more about "In the Good Ole Summertime" in the 2024 Summer Edition, online now. And to read daily posts about unique objects from the past and their histories, like the #Antiques and More Collection on Facebook.

Caretaker or Curator–Which are You?

QUESTION: My father collected old tools. He would scour the tables of flea markets and yard sales to find interesting and unique tools to add to his collection. He passed away last year and left me his collection. I’m not sure what to do with it. I’m not particularly interested in old tools. Do you have any suggestions?

ANSWER: Here’s a good example of a collection that has been passed down from father to son. It’s also a good example of the predicament that many people find themselves in when a relative dies and leaves them something that was dear to them.

It seems that you have taken over the job of acting curator for your father’s collection.  While there’s nothing wrong in that, you’re missing out on the joy of collecting—the search for other pieces and buying the ones that you like. But you shouldn’t feel bad. This is more often the case than not.

The important thing to note here is that this collection is your father’s. It was he who actively sought out the various items. It was he who did the research to find out what tools men used in the 19th century. And it was he who saw the connections between the tools and the jobs they helped men do.
                       
Currently, you’re simply caretaker of your father’s collection. One option you have is to sell the collection, in its entirety or piece by piece. You could sell it to another tool collector or a dealer for a lump sum and not be concerned about how much you get for it. In fact, you won’t get anything near to what it’s worth. Or you can do some research and find out just how valuable these tools are. However, if you decide to keep the collection, then you must become its curator.

A curator is someone who catalogs and maintains historic or artistic collections. This usually entails the maintenance of the objects and their general protection from damage. The curator also finds out as much as possible about the objects in the collection and, using a number of reliable resources, determines their value. In addition, the curator adds to the collection, refining it by selling off inferior pieces and arranging for the purchase of better ones. In essence, the curator becomes a collector.

So which are you—caretaker or curator? If you’ve been acting as a caretaker, why not change roles and actively get involved in learning all you can about and growing your inherited collection. You don’t know how much fun you’re missing.

More on Organizing Your Collections

You’ve figured out a numbering system and assigned numbers to the items in your collection. The next step is to apply them to your objects. Whichever technique you used depends on the surface of the object. The labels must be removable in case you sell an item from the collection, but they must also be durable and long-lasting. Choose a place for the label on the bottom or back of objects, being careful not to obliterate any trademarks, serial numbers, patent dates, or maker's signatures. Use a thin pointed Sharpie marker to print the numbers on the labels. Removable labels work the best.

Paper items can be labeled with a soft pencil, never with ink or a rubber stamp. Apply the label in an inconspicuous place, preferably on the back, always keeping in mind that it may have to be removed. Place the label on a sturdy portion of the paper, not so close to the edge that the paper will tear if the number is erased.

For such textiles as rugs, quilts, samplers, wall hangings, and clothing, use small fabric labels numbered with a laundry pen or fine ballpoint pen. Always test the pen first on a piece of scrap label to make sure that the ink does not bleed or smear. Attach the label to the fabric with only one or two stitches at each corner so that the label can easily be removed without damaging the fabric. Although self-adhesive labels or iron-on tape may seem quick and easy, they are not recommended because they fall off in time. They sometimes permanently discolor the object or leave a residue that can damage it.

If you recorded your collection on cards or in a looseleaf notebook, you can break it down into individual classifications for filing purposes. You may wish to even break down those classifications further.  Some specialties may not require such complete listings, and some individual headings may need to be expanded. For example, if the specialty is Eastlake-inspired furniture, subheadings can be added in the furniture category to identify makers or types of furniture. In the case of bottles, for example, specify the type of glass, blown or molded, the color and shape, and the type of bottle—whiskey bottle, flask, bitters bottle, or house-hold bottle. The contents of your collection and your planned future acquisitions will determine the headings you choose.

Using a digital camera or camera-equipped smartphone, you may wish to add photos of the items in your collection to your listings or database. Photograph the items individually. If you’re working with small objects, consider buying or making a lightbox—a box with white paper on three sides and bottom—in which you can photograph them. Save the originals as is, but make copies of all the photos first and rename them using the catalog number you’ve assigned to that object.

Most growing collections represent substantial investments of time and effort as well as money. Besides its obvious uses for insurance claims, a carefully kept catalog is valuable to those who may buy or inherit your collection. Cataloging is also a way of becoming intimately acquainted with all the objects in your collection, identifying the collection's strengths and weaknesses, and  taking the time to enjoy it thoroughly.

Organizing Your Collections

QUESTIONS: I love collecting things and have been doing it a long time. But I now find I really don’t know exactly what I have. Can you give me some advice on how to organize my collections?

ANSWERS: Collecting things can be addictive. And over time your collections may become so large that you lose sight of what you actually have. Organizing your collections is important if you’re to truly enjoy them.

Private collections often start with one or two items—perhaps a striking old photograph or an old vase. You treasure a few objects and know their every feature by heart. As the objects multiply, however, you’ll  forget where you found an object or what its history was. Cataloging of your collection can record those details, document the artifacts for insurance, and form a framework to keep similar objects together.

Collectors have a common need to know what they have and where they got it.

There are three ways to catalog your collections. All of them are rather simple. The first uses
standard 3 x 5 or 5 x 8-inch cards and a notebook, or logbook. Another uses a three-ring binder with dividers if you prefer to keep all the information under one cover. In either case, no special materials are needed; cards, notebooks, and binders are available at any office-supply or stationery store.

The third way is to create a computer database. You can begin by using the cards you prepared above, then transferring the information to a database later.

The first step in any classification system is a catalog number, which will appear on the artifact, in the logbook, and on every receipt, canceled check, photograph, or card that relates to it. The number is the essential link between your records and the item.

The objects in your collection should be numbered in sequence in the order in which you acquired them. Although simple numbers will serve, a three-part number is more useful because it includes the year the object was acquired and the source. Individual items purchased at the same time from the same source will thus each have this number.

It’s a good idea to record the numbers consecutively in the logbook as soon as you assign them. Include in the entry basic information about the source, a brief description of the object, and the price paid for it. That information, along with the receipt or canceled check, can be used to document a claim if a part or all of the collection should be damaged or destroyed. The log should be stored in a safe place and updated regularly.

Next Week: More on organizing your collections.