Knock on Wood

 

QUESTION: Before the pandemic, I had been going to antique shows, especially those that featured more primitive pieces. One of the things that caught my eye was the variety of wooden objects, utensils, and containers on display. I’ve always liked the look of natural wood and think that I might start a collection. But there were so many different items that I don’t know where to start. Can you help me/

ANSWER: As with any type of collection, it’s important to collect what you like. A way to narrow this down a bit might be to think about what you like to do. Are you an avid cook that delights in all sorts of kitchen gadgets? Do you like unique containers? Do you like to work with woodworking tools? Once you decide what category of wooden items you’d like to collect, then, and only then, should you begin purchasing items for your collection. Also, it’s important to set a budget limit—know what you can afford—especially in the beginning. 

Woodenware generally consists of utilitarian items used in the everyday lives of 18th- and 19th-century Americans. Also known as treenware, from the word "treen," an old usage for "from trees." Wood was the component in the construction of many necessities in early American life.

Craftsmen used pine, a soft wood that was east to work with, for making woodenware and boxes. Dough boxes, trenchers—large oval or rectangular serving or preparation bowls---and small boxes made of pine are a favorite of collectors. They also used cherry, poplar, and butternut but didn’t use oak very often.

Fine examples of handmade, early American burl bowls can reach prices of over $1,000. A burl is an abnormal growth on a tree, occurring on a limb or the trunk. It’s harder than the normal wood of the tree. Due to its hardness, woodworkers often burned the piece of burl in the center, than dug it out with tools, finishing it to form the implement. Heavy and tough, the burl exhibits a beautiful and unusual appearance, becoming even more attractive over time when a patina forms. Burl items seem less likely to crack over time than the items made from normal wood. Some larger wooden-ware items may exhibit a partial burl in their construction.

Probably the most common examples of woodenware found were made for food preparation and storage. Family members fashioned many of these items by hand, but unfortunately, they discarded them when they were no longer usable. Hand-planed and carved marks are sure signs of handcrafting, as is a non-symmetrical design. Bowls and dry measures are probably the most common pieces of early manufactured woodenware. But finding a maker’s name on an item is rare.

Butter molds and stamps are another type of woodenware often seen. However, plates, utensils, and cups are scarce and command higher prices. Though handmade bowls sell well, manufactured bowls from the late 1800s and early 1900s are more common and affordable. Most desirable of the manufactured bowls tend to be the unusually large examples, of over 18 inches in diameter.

Designed to hold all types of dry goods, such as flour, cornmeal and other grains, pantry boxes are popular among woodenware collectors. They especially like the covered oval boxes with finger lapping made by the Shakers. The finger lapping helped the boxes keep their shape over time. Makers usually painted many of these. Like most items, it these boxes retain their original paint, the value increases dramatically.

Woodenware also includes items, such as shovels, buckets, tools, and barrels, used in daily life. Coopers made staved buckets and barrels. They constructed the majority of them with iron bands, and occasionally used wood bands.

Grain shovels, hay forks and rakes were some old farm implements made from wood. 

Makers cut early pieces from one piece of wood, with the grip, handle and shovel constituting one piece. Later, they made them from two pieces, joined with nuts and bolts  Farm implements, like rakes, forks and shovels, received a good bit of hard use, and often exhibit wear and tear.

Staved firkins, or sugar buckets, used to hold sugar and other dry goods, and had a  cover, swing handle, and wood bands. Wider at the base than at the top, these buckets came in several sizes. Painted examples are the most valuable. Other utilitarian pieces included sap buckets, used for collecting sap for maple syrup making, kerosene buckets, and drop handle water pails.

Woodenware was made to be used, often strenuously and regularly. Wear and use marks not only add to the intrigue of the piece, but also help in differentiating it from a recently made one. Chop marks usually cover the interior of bowls and trenchers. Stir sticks will be stained from soups and jams. Farmers scraped grain shovels thousands of times against barn floors. In addition, the wood has probably been exposed to a wide range of weather conditions over the years, as people often stored pieces in barns, attics, and cellars. And because some of the earliest pieces of American-made woodenware were quite thin, cracks and breaks were inevitable.

Woodworkers used different finishes on various types of woodenware. They left kitchen implements natural, though the exteriors of bowls and trenchers may have been painted or stained. Cooking oils and fats gives them a smooth, rich patina. Constant handling of the item also contributed to a well-worn look. Original finishes and paints add to woodenware’s value. Old red, blue or mustard paints are especially desirable. 

To read more articles on antiques, please visit the Antiques Articles section of my Web site.  And to stay up to the minute on antiques and collectibles, please join the over 30,000 readers by following my free online magazine, #TheAntiquesAlmanac. Learn more about the Sears Catalogue and the items sold in it in "Sears' Book of Bargains" in the 2021 Fall Edition, online now. And to read daily posts about unique objects from the past and their histories, like the #Antiques and More Collection on Facebook.

The Mysterious Peach Blow Craze

 

QUESTION: My grandmother collected antique glass. Of all the pieces she had, which I inherited after her passing, one stands out. It’s a small multi-colored vase that fades from a rose pink at the top to a white toward the bottom. It’s devoid of decoration, has a simple shape, and a matter finish. Can you tell me what type of glass this is and a bit about its history?

ANSWER: It seems that you’ve inherited a piece of Mt. Washington “Peach Blow” glass. Of the three distinct types of Peach Blow, pieces produced by Mt. Washington are the rarest.

Peach Blow glass was a craze in the third quarter of the 19th century. The sale of a single 8-inch porcelain vase in 1866 changed the glassmaking industry for the 20th century and beyond. It belonged to Mary Jane Morgan, widow of shipping magnate Charles Morgan. Mary Jane lived a frugal life until her husband’s death in 1878, but she then began a shopping spree that lasted until her death in 1885. The media and the public at the time focused on a single porcelain “Peach Blow” vase that sold for $18,000.

The glass industry was quick to embrace the fad. A new craze developed for anything Peach Blow in color. Unlike most categories in glass collecting, Peach Blow isn’t characterized by color, transparency, the number of layers or decoration. The term was nothing more than a gimmick to sell the glass. Peach Blow glass had no single identifying characteristics, thus its appearance could vary widely. It can be pink, peachy, red, lined or unlined, decorated or undecorated. Plus, it came in just about all ceramic shapes.

So what makes it Peach Blow? The only way to tell is by the original maker’s name. Peach Blow is Peach Blow only if a manufacturer called it that. So collectors must learn who made this type of glass,  and learn to recognize each company’s product.

Public demand for this glassware led to the production of souvenir interpretations for major public events like the 1893 Worlds Fair. The Libbey Glass Company of Toledo, Ohio, successor to New England Glass, set up a working glass factory at the Fair to make Peach Blow souvenirs on site. These pieces shaded from rose pink to white and isn’t lined. Pieces were either matt or glossy and decorated or undecorated and is paper thin.

There were 17 different makers, thus 17 different types of Peach Blow.  They include Mt. Washington, Hobbs, New England, World’s Fair, Webb, Stevens & Williams, Carder/Steuben, Gundersen, Pairpoint, Guernsey, Italian, Pilgrim, Kanawha, Fenton, L.G. Wright, Imperial, and Intaglio. If a piece didn’t originate from one of these lines, it isn’t Peach Blow. And while all of them differed from one another in the colors that fade, the number of layers, and whether they’re lined or not, all can be generally classified into three groups— Wheeling Peach Blow, Mt. Washington Peach Blow, and Webb Peach Blow. 

Made by Hobbs, Brockunier & Company of Wheeling, West Virginia, starting in 1886, it shaded from a rich, mahogany red to a deep golden orange and had a creamy white lining. It came in both matt and glossy finish and its was only decorated with a band of amber found on some pieces. Prices can range from three to four figures. A Hobbs Morgan vase with its amber glass stand can sell for $500 to $2,500. 

Like Wheeling Peach Blow, Mt. Washington Peach Blow was produced from about 1886 until 1888 in both matte and gloss finishes and was originally called "Peach Blow" or "Peach Skin." Unlike Wheeling Peach Blow, Mt. Washington Peach Blow wasn’t lined. Paper thin, it looks as if someone dusted it with rose and blue powders from opposite ends. Due to the very limited production, Mt. Washington Peach Blow is the rarest of the three distinct types of Peach Blow glassware with the average price being around $2,000. But a rare decorated cruet can cost $10,000.

In England, Thomas Webb & Sons produced an English Peach Blow reminiscent of the Hobbs Brockunier production, lined on the inside and shading from a deep red to a lighter yellow. Webb Peach Blow is also referred to as "Peach Bloom" and has more reddish hues than the Hobbs version which is more orange by comparison. This is the only Peach Blow not technically called “Peach Blow” by the manufacturer. It can be found in both satin and glass finishes and can be decorated or undecorated. Most pieces sell for an average of $400 each.

To identify period Peach Blow and the three major variations, pay close attention to the shading of colors from top to bottom and whether the piece is lined or not. Pink satin glass is sometimes mistakenly referred to as Peach Blow as well. 

To read more articles on antiques, please visit the Antiques Articles section of my Web site.  And to stay up to the minute on antiques and collectibles, please join the over 30,000 readers by following my free online magazine, #TheAntiquesAlmanac. Learn more about the Sears Catalogue and the items sold in it in "Sears' Book of Bargains" in the 2021 Fall Edition, online now. And to read daily posts about unique objects from the past and their histories, like the #Antiques and More Collection on Facebook.

Superheroes Galore

QUESTION: When I was a kid, I read comic books all the time. I’d even sneak a flashlight under the covers and read them when I was supposed to be a asleep. But over the years I drifted away from them. Recently, I went to a comic book show with a friend just to accompany him, but once there I got hooked again. Now I think I’d like to collect them. Can you give me a brief history of comic books so I have an idea of what’s involved? 

ANSWER: Comic books are not only fun to collect but are affordable. While there are some that sell at auction for stratospheric sums, the majority can be bought for reasonable amounts. 

Less than two decades ago, blockbuster movies featuring a raging green hulk, a group of mutant humans, a spider, and a man blinded by radioactive waste spurred the resurgence in comic book collecting. And who can forget the comic book store frequented by the nerdy guys in the hit T.V. show The Big Bang Theory.

While interest in comic books featuring superhuman characters increased in the early 21st Century, their origin goes back much earlier.

American comic books trace their roots back to 1933 when a syndicated newspaper published part of its Sunday comic's page on 7 by 9-inch plates. Eastern Printing employees Max Gaines and Harry Wildenherg believed two such plates could fit a tabloid-size page, producing a 7 by l0-inch book when folded. The two took newspaper strips and reprinted them in a booklet titled Funnies On Parade, which the Proctor and Gamble Company used as a premium.

Gaines convinced Eastern executives he could sell similar comics to large advertising firms. Eastern then produced and distributed Famous Funnies and Century of Comics. Both were highly successful.

Surprised with the popularity of the giveaway comics, Caine believed he could sell them to kids if it were reasonably priced, so the company printed Famous Funnies Series One and sold it for 10 cents. The comic was an immediate sellout. It became the first monthly comic and continued to be published until 1955.

Early comic books featured nothing more than reprinted material. In 1935, New Fun became the first comic to break the "reprinted material" barrier by featuring the antics of Oswald the Rabbit.

The comic book industry took a gigantic leap forward in June 1938 when the first issue of Action Comics featured the amazing feats of Superman. Just as his flying abilities allowed him to leap tall buildings in a single bound, they also catapulted him to the top of the sales charts.

But it took five years before Jerry Siegel and Joe Shuster, who created Superman, to sell their character to National Periodicals Publications. They had tried to market Superman to every newspaper syndicate but were repeatedly rejected. Superman was the first of many superheroes to become part of the Golden Age of Comics.

Superman’s success gave birth to dozens of other superheroes, such as Batman, who first appeared in Detective Comics 27. Artist Bob Kane modeled Superman on drawings of Leonardo da Vinci's flying machines. Although Batman had no superpowers, he appealed to young readers: He was costumed, smart, and had a variety of neat gadgets at his disposal.

Batman received his own title in the spring of 1940 when Batman No. I appeared on newsstands. This issue also featured the first appearances of Catwoman and The Joker. Other main characters made their appearances in issues of Detective Cornics, which later became DC, before crossing over to the Batman title. Robin, the Boy Wonder, debuted in Detective Comics No. 38. The Penguin made his first appearance in Detective Comics No. 58. Robin made history in 1988 when fans voted to have him killed off.

In the fall of 1939, Timely Comics published Marvel Comics No. I, which contained the first appearances of The Human Torch. Eventually, Timely became Marvel Comics, who along with DC dominated the comic book publishing industry for decades.

Captain America, appearing in his own comic right from the beginning, made his debut in March 1941. Previously, all new characters appeared in another comic before being granted their own title. This way, publishers could judge reader reaction through comic book sales to see if the new character could stand on his own. Captain America began his career fighting Nazis months before America declared war.

In the spring of 1941, Wonder Woman appeared on newsstands, followed by Captain Marvel and The Green Lantern. By the end of the year, over 150 different comic titles appeared on the newsstands. 

World War II had a profound effect on comic books. Dell published the first war comic, appropriately titled War Comics No. I. Many superheroes rushed into the armed forces to battle the enemy, much as many young men did. Commando Yank, Major Victory, Jungle Jim, Spy Smasher and The Unknown Soldier all played hero to many teens on the home front.

The 1940s saw the creation of two teen idols—Archie Andrews and Katy Keene. After debuting in Pep Comics, Archie Andrews got his own comic title in 1942. Katy Keene made her first appearance in Wilbur Comics in 1945. Following appearances in three other comics, Pep gave the beauty queen her own title in 1950.

The end of World War II brought about the desire for change. Adventure writers were having problems developing new plots, while humor writers found it hard to be funny after a war that cost millions their lives. The comic book industry wasn’t any different. It needed to come up with new titles, categories, and formats if it was to survive.

The western comic was one of those new categories. In 1948, Hopalong Cassidy produced a huge hit for comic book publisher Fawcett. Other publishers scrambled to take advantage of the new category. All American Western, Annie Oakley, and The Two-Gun Kid all rode onto newsstands with the fury of a cornered desperado.

With the onset of the 1950s, comic book readership continued its downward trend. Even Superman began to falter. In an attempt to regain customers, several publishers turned to violence. William Gaines, the son of Max Gaines, left DC in the mid-1940s and formed Educational Comics. When Max died, his son inherited the Eastern Printing. William changed the name to Entertaining Comics (E.C.), launching several titles that caused serious controversy.

E.C. comics contained gruesome stories and gory covers. Crypt of Terror, The Haunt of Fear and The Vault of Horror. The extreme violence .eventually brought about the company's downfall. The only E..C. title that weathered the controversy was Tales Calculated to Drive You Mad No. 1, which later became Mad Magazine.

The Silver Age of comics began in 1956 with the publication of Showcase No. 4, featuring the adventures of the fastest man alive—The Flash. This character had the same name and same powers as his golden age counterpart, but the stories were completely different.

Marvel comics introduce a superhero team in November 1961 with Fantastic Four No. I. The title's main characters obtained their super powers when their spacecraft traveled though a cosmic storm. 

The most recognized Marvel superhero, Spider Man, first scurried across the pages of Amazing Fantasy 15 in August 1962. Peter Parker, aka Spider Man, was a geeky high school student who attained the traits of an arachnoid when a radioactive spider bit him. In March 1963, Spider-Man received his own title when The Amazing Spider-Man No. 1 hit the newsstands.

But even some of Spider-Man stories were controversial. In the early 1970s, a Spider-Man one showcased the harmful effects of drugs. Two years later, The Amazing Spider Man #121 jolted the comic book world with the murder of Spider Man's girlfriend.  Marvel's next superhero, The Incredible Hulk, was the result of exposure to radiation. The Incredible Hulk No. 1 burst onto newsstands featuring the exploits of Dr. Bruce Banner.

The 1970s arrived with the birth of Conan the Barbarian, The Swamp Thing, and The Micronauts. Major publishers reprinted the most valuable comic titles from the past. Several of these, including Action Comics I, were stripped of their covers and sold as the real thing. 

Learn more about Marvel Comics by reading "Marvelous Superheroes" in #TheAntiquesAlmanac.

To read more articles on antiques, please visit the Antiques Articles section of my Web site.  And to stay up to the minute on antiques and collectibles, please join the over 30,000 readers by following my free online magazine, #TheAntiquesAlmanac. Learn more about railroad antiques in "All Aboard!" in the 2021 Summer Edition, online now. And to read daily posts about unique objects from the past and their histories, like the #Antiques and More Collection on Facebook.

Symbols of Worldliness

 

QUESTION: Back in the late 1960s, I made a road trip across the United States, stopping at numerous national parks and monuments. Early on, I noticed that on the desk in the visitor centers was a display of travel stickers for various national parks. So I decided to purchase one for each park and monument I visited, as well as other places like cities and museums. By the time my trip was over I had amassed quite a collection. Are these travel stickers collectible? 

ANSWER: While you collected travel stickers, their original use was to affix to luggage as a way of telling the world where a traveler had been. During the Golden Age of Travel during the second half of the 19th century, sticker labels like these appeared on  steamer trunks. Colorful mementos of foreign locales, luggage labels can take us back to a time of grand hotels, luxury trains, and elegant ships.

Originally, they were a way of identifying a guest’s luggage when they arrived at one of those posh resorts. Forerunners of baggage tags, travel labels became the hallmark of a world traveler—a symbol of worldliness.

Often designed in the artistic style of the time, many of luggage labels are exquisite examples of the Art Nouveau and Art Deco styles. However, even the best artists didn’t take such work too seriously. Prominent poster and graphic artists who affixed their name to larger works frequently left their luggage label commissions unsigned, but those which had been signed by the artist are the most valuable. 

By the mid-19th century, the Industrial Revolution's creation of wealth and more reliable modes of transportation, such as steamships, railroads, and passenger planes inaugurated an explosion in travel. A growing middle class, with access to more leisure time, joined businessmen, diplomats, explorers, and the rich on their travels to locales around the globe.

The earliest examples of hotel luggage labels date to the 1860s when printers produced them in small batches. But production really took off by the end of the 19th century. By that time, many more people were traveling, making the need to identify the hotel that would serve as the final destination for luggage coming off ships and trains a necessity.

To encourage this increased traffic, hotels and transportation companies turned to advertising. Newspaper and magazine ads increased in size and number. Many companies commissioned posters and luggage labels by noted graphic artists. Steamship companies, railroads, airlines, and bellhops at hotels around the world affixed labels to all sorts of luggage from small cases to trunks, proclaiming to all that the luggage’s owner was an adventurer at a time when travel was still not that fast, easy, or inexpensive. In those days, suitcases were rigid, making it easy for bellboys or concierges to stick their labels on.

Besides hotels, other businesses and organizations also employed luggage labels to promote themselves. Airlines like Pan Am began using them as soon as air travel became accessible to travelers around the 1920s. Even restaurants and national parks used them. 

Many of these labels simulated small travel posters but weren’t meant to be permanently preserved. Affixed with gum, it was extremely difficult to remove labels without damaging them, so some travelers would ask for an extra label or two to be tucked into their wallet or journal as a memento of their trip, and it is these specimens that most often turn up in the collectibles markets today. In fact, a piece of antique or vintage luggage covered with labels is often worth more than a comparable piece without.

Regarded by many as miniature works of art, most early labels were actually lithographed, and many bear the printer's imprint. Some travel companies commissioned important illustrators to produce their luggage labels. Dan Sweeney for instance was an American illustrator who contributed illustrations for books, posters, magazines, and luggage labels for the Hong Kong & Shanghai Hotel Group. Italian graphic designer Mario Borgoni was also renowned for his Art Nouveau labels and posters.

Nostalgia is one reason collectors love luggage labels. But even more so because they’re small, easy to store and display, and relatively inexpensive. Collectors have such a variety of designs to choose from that most focus on a particular style like Art Nouveau or Art Deco; a country or transportation company, hotels, a printer like Richter & Company, or a designer like Mario Borgoni. Original luggage labels can be found at flea markets and antique shows, and of course, online. 

The majority of labels sell for under $25, and depending on their rarity, condition, style, and the renown of the illustrator or the hotel or airline, can sell for several hundred. But with such reasonable prices, it pays to be aware of reproductions. A good jeweler's loupe will help distinguish the solid colors of an original lithographed label from the dots of a four-color-process reproduction or the lines of a scanned image. 

Travel stickers slowly started to lose their popularity by the 1960s as soft suitcases began to replace hard luggage, making it harder to stick labels on them.

To read more articles on antiques, please visit the Antiques Articles section of my Web site.  And to stay up to the minute on antiques and collectibles, please join the over 30,000 readers by following my free online magazine, #TheAntiquesAlmanac. Learn more about railroad antiques in "All Aboard!" in the 2021 Summer Edition, online now. And to read daily posts about unique objects from the past and their histories, like the #Antiques and More Collection on Facebook.

Downsizing Antiques and Collectibles

 

QUESTION: For the past 53 years of our marriage, my wife and I have inherited, purchased and collected a complete household of Victorian and related historical furniture, heirlooms, decorations, accessories and more. Since we both are in our late 70s, we expect to be selling our Neo-Victorian house in the next three to five years, and that means making the considerable effort to sell, donate and otherwise dispose of all these wonderful furnishings. Could you advise us about the best way(s) of selling or otherwise disposing of our items? 

ANSWER: For older folks, disposing of antiques and collectibles is a common problem today. While the process may seem daunting, it’s not impossible. Buying and gathering items over the years seemed effortless and fun. But the years of enjoying your antiques and collectibles is really what it’s all about.  

As older folks start to de-clutter and downsize, most attempt to give their prized possessions to their children, if they have any. But many of today’s middle-age children aren’t interested. Either they have families and possessions of their own or don’t want any more stuff. Those in their 30s and early 40s are more transient or living in small condos rather than buying large homes. They want to be able to move easily from city to city to find jobs that will advance their careers and don’t want lots of collectibles or large pieces of antique furniture that they’ll have to pay to move.

And single older people also face this same problem. In their case, they don’t have children and must consider other ways to dispose of their possessions.

Either way, both groups may have family members who want specific heirlooms and/or collectibles. So once you take inventory of what you have, you may want to contact members of your greater family to see if they may be interested in any antiques or collectibles you may have to see if they’re interested.

But don’t be offended if no one wants your items. Remember you don’t want to burden your children with items they don’t want. Let your children decide what they want, just as you were able to decide that you wanted to collect.

Once you know what items other family members want, make a list of what’s left and divide the remainder into groups of items that you might offer to friends, donate, throw away, or attempt to sell. For those items you decide to sell, be aware that your heirlooms and collectibles may sell at a much lower price than what you think they’re worth, or not at all.

The antiques market has been hit hard since the 2008 recession. Baby Boomers have inundated antiques stores with their castaways. The generation that’s buying and/or collecting antiques is also the one that’s trying to sell them. 

Most older people only plan how to dispose of their antiques and forget about smaller items. Unless these are collectibles, it’s probably best to donate them to Goodwill or church sales.

Where to sell antiques depends on how many and what type of antiques you own. Some people have dozens of items while others only have a piece or two. You can either opt to sell antiques online or find a way to get rid of them locally. Either way, your decision on where to sell will affect into how much money you can get for them.

First, determine what your antiques or collectibles are worth (Learn more: “What’s It Worth?” and “You, Too, Can Determine If What You Own Has Value”) Next, decide whether you want to sell them wholesale or retail. 

The first place people think of selling antiques is to local antiques dealers. If you walk into an antique shop with an item for sale, the dealer will likely offer to purchase it for half of what it’s worth (wholesale), that is if he or she is interested. If they’re not interested in purchasing your item, they may even recommend another dealer who might be. 

An alternative to selling directly to an antiques dealer is to consign your antiques to a consignment shop (retail). This type of shop differs from a regular antiques shop because all the items inside are for sale on consignment. You agree on a price and the shop owner puts it in their store for sale. You get paid when the item sells, minus the owner’s commission which usually runs around 20 percent or more.

The Internet has changed the way people buy and sell antiques and collectibles. It has made it easier to discover how much an item is worth, which makes selling antiques much simpler. Because the Internet allows access to more buyers, theoretically you could get more money for your antiques. However, you’ll also have to consider shipping costs which could be considerable for larger items. Plus, it will take a while to learn how to sell your items online. 

Selling antiques on eBay is probably the easiest way to get started selling online. You’ll be able to put your collections in front of thousands of people without having to have an antiques business. Another possibility is to sell your items on Etsy.

If you have something particular to sell, it might be worthwhile reaching out to some antiques dealers on the Internet who sell that particular type of antique or collectible. Check out their Web sites and shop policies to see if they purchase items from the public. And as with local dealers, you’ll probably only get half of what your items are worth, but you’ll save time and listing fees in favor of an immediate sale.

Social media sites like Facebook offer selling options as well. Facebook Marketplace is a good place to sell individual items, including antiques, but don’t expect to get top dollar.

If you have a lot of lower-end collectibles you want to sell, consider renting a space at a local flea market. But remember, most buyers here will be looking for a bargain and is often part of the sales process.

You can get rid of older items that don’t have too much value by holding a garage or yard sale (Learn more: “So You Want to Hold a Yard Sale”). Use keywords like “antiques,” “vintage” and “collectibles” in your online listings for the sale to attract the right buyers.

If you need to clear out an entire house, seek out a reputable estate sale company. Different companies may offer different packages depending on the estimated value of the house contents.

If you have valuable items or collections you want to sell, consider listing them with a local or national auction house. Well-advertised auctions are a great way to sell a specialty item. If you’re worried your antiques won’t sell for market value, you can always put a reserve price on them. Remember, you’ll have to pay the auction house a commission on the sale.

To read more articles on antiques, please visit the Antiques Articles section of my Web site.  And to stay up to the minute on antiques and collectibles, please join the over 30,000 readers by following my free online magazine, #TheAntiquesAlmanac. Learn more about railroad antiques in "All Aboard!" in the 2021 Summer Edition, online now. And to read daily posts about unique objects from the past and their histories, like the #Antiques and More Collection on Facebook.

Collecting is More Than a Passion

 

QUESTION: My passion for collecting seems to becoming an obsession. How can I control this? And how can I judge what things are worth collecting?

ANSWER: You’ve obviously been bitten hard by the collecting bug. Ever since the launching of the Antiques Roadshow and Pawn Stars, as well as eBay, Ruby Lane, and other antiques and collectibles, many people think that everything is worth something. And if something is old, it must certainly be valuable. If you believe this, then you’re wrong on both counts.

The first question you need to ask yourself is “Why do you collect things?” Is it for their intrinsic or monetary value, is it for the pleasure they give you, or is it for some vague idea of self-worth?

Asking avid collectors why they do what they do is like asking, "Why do you breathe?" They might reply that something about human behavior wants—or is fated—to gather and accumulate, to crave and classify, to seek out and hoard. Passion plays a part in many serious collectors' pursuits, as does, many admit, the thrill of the hunt.

This can be true even, or perhaps especially, when time is long between looking, finding and acquiring. The rarer an object of desire, the less frequent or instant the gratification of its discovery; for some determined collectors, though, pleasure resides in the long, unpredictable search for a coveted item. Inexplicably, it may also dissolve when it leads to a find.

For many people, collecting is a way of getting in touch with a past era, even if they didn't live through that particular period themselves. Some enjoy owning objects from what they may imagine was a simpler, less stressful age. Or they may have a strong nostalgic or family connection to a certain period and place.

Some people collect with investment value in mind, others to develop an informed knowledge of a our material culture. Either way, passion plays a part in many serious collectors' pursuits, as does the thrill of the hunt. Identifying personally with the objects one admires can also feed the collecting impulse.

Some collectors embrace—and celebrate—their magnificent obsessions. Like entertainers, they enjoy displaying what they have amassed and sharing their enthusiasm with friends. Conversely, many people keep their treasured collections to themselves.

Collecting has broaden in scope over the decades. It used to be that antiques included only decorative objects and furnishings. Today, collectors consider any object 100 years old or older an antique. Anything newer a collectible. And while some antiques may be considered collectibles, not all collectibles are antiques. Take typewriters, for instance. The oldest ones are antiques but newer ones from the late 20th century are technically collectibles.

What's old is new in the evermore-diverse collectibles market, and as long as someone, somewhere values something enough to acquire it and stimulate trading in its field, it can become a common practice to do so. Thus, along with such old favorites as stamps and coins, items like Barbie dolls, comic books, and computers, in fact, just about everything can be deemed a collectible.

So where do you draw the line.  The first rule of collecting is collect what you like. The second rule is to be knowledgeable about your collection. The third rule is buy low and sell high. 

Understand why you’re collecting what you do. What got you started? Have you kept up with your collection or has it run its course? If your collection is languishing, then perhaps you’ve lost interest. Life changes. You change. 

Do you know a lot about what you collect? Have you studied up on the history of the objects? Do you know the makers and the marks? Do you know the last word on the subject? Have you kept up with the market value?

Too many people get caught up in the entertainment value of auction sites like eBay. For some it’s like playing poker. They even get to “win.” Many pay far more than an object is worth just because they want to be the winner. If you’re a true collector, you’ll not even bid on an item unless you know you can get it for a good deal below market value. And that means you have to know what it’s worth before you bid. 

Do you just collect things or do you keep an inventory of your collection? To understand the true value of your collection, you need to know when and where you purchased each piece, how much you paid and how much it’s worth now. You may even want to photograph each item as a record for insurance purposes.

Of course, as any collector knows, there’s a price to pay. Thus, beginners and seasoned veterans alike usually pursue their collecting passion at some cost. No matter what your field is, there's something all of us inevitably collect and unless you pick the pieces off the junk pile, you’ll have to pay for them.

To read more articles on antiques, please visit the Antiques Articles section of my Web site.  And to stay up to the minute on antiques and collectibles, please join the over 30,000 readers by following my free online magazine, #TheAntiquesAlmanac. Learn more about railroad antiques in "All Aboard!" in the 2021 Summer Edition, online now. And to read daily posts about unique objects from the past and their histories, like the #Antiques and More Collection on Facebook.