Cleanliness is Next to Godliness

 

Unrestored Victorian bathroom

QUESTION: My husband and I recently bought an old Victorian house and would like to restore the bathroom to its original look. Except we can’t seem to figure out what that look was. There are so many variations. Can you help us figure out which antique bathing accessories to use and perhaps a little about the decor?

ANSWER: Before you can begin to restore the bathroom in your Victorian home, you need to find out its age and style. A series of revival styles—Italianate, Renaissance Revival, Rococo Revival, Gothic Revival, Victorian Cottage, etc.—captured the imaginations of Victorian architects and they not only designed the exteriors in styles but the interiors to match. 

Until at least the 1870s, daytime trips to the outdoor toilet or “privy” were essential regardless of the weather. Somewhere around 1800 in the United States privies began to move indoors, usually to an old clothes closet, from which the term “water closet” or “WC” originated.. At first they generally had an earth filled hopper that could be removed for cleaning. An easily opened window and a

Victorian outhouse

tight fitting door kept fumes from the rest of the house. Even bathing demanded only a wooden tub and a warm kitchen, when people bothered at all. Washing up at the bedroom washstand where water froze in the pitcher in the winter did little to encourage cleanliness.

Even in the 1840s, people denounced bathtubs as a foppish English luxury that would corrupt the democratic simplicity of the American way of life. Doctors warned of "rheumatic fevers, inflamed lungs and zymotic diseases."

People installed the earliest Victorian bathrooms into regular rooms in their existing houses. They fitted the fixtures into wood to make the room feel similar to a parlor or a bedroom. Everything felt like furniture, and the room was decorated as such, with paintings, wallpaper, wainscoting, fabrics, and rugs—everything that would have been  in a normal room, but with a tub, sink, and toilet.

Wooden Victorian bathroom

Eventually, the Victorians realized that maybe wood wasn’t the best choice for a bathroom, especially when they installed hot water pipes and tanks in houses towards the late 19th century. It was then that a fascination with cleanliness occurred, and rooms became tiled covered in linoleum for the less wealthy. Bathroom fixtures, such as sinks and toilets, became made of one piece of porcelain which was so much easier to keep clean. Homeowners considered white a clean color that they would know when to clean.

Early Victorian bathroom made to look like a regular room

When bathrooms became stand-alone rooms, they were usually located at the back of the house, as out of the way as possible, to deal with sewer smells. With the invention of the S-Bend sewer system, plumbing could keep the smells out, so bathrooms could be located anywhere in the house, often under stairs or in former dressing rooms. The bath and sink were commonly in one room, and the toilet in another.

Early clawfoot bathtub

Adam Thompson of Cincinnati created the first built-in bathtub—a lead-lined mahogany monstrosity that weighed a ton. And when President Fillmore installed one in the White House in 1851, people criticized him for importing a "monarchial luxury into the official residence of the Chief Executive of the Republic."

The clawfoot bathtub became popular by the end of the 19th century as hot water tanks became more prevalent. Prior to this, people bathed in tin tubs. Often, in early bathrooms, to get the furniture feel, bathroom designers surrounded tubs with mahogany.

Enameled cast-iron Victorian clawfoot bathtub

But a growing belief that cleanliness was next to godliness, made the permanent bathtub inevitable. In 1`886, Good Housekeeping Magazine noted, "Cleanliness of the body being essential to the health of the individual, it must be admitted that a bathtub should be looked upon. not as a luxury, but as a necessity in even the humblest home.” 

At the time, homeowners could choose from seven basic types of bathtubs—enameled cast iron, tinned and "planished" copper; molded earthenware, tin, or less durable wood or zinc. Although porcelain tubs were the best choice, they cost the most.

Victorian porcelain pedestal sink

For the adventurous there were also disappearing tubs that folded into what passed as a wardrobe, electric tubs that sent a mild galvanic "curative" shock through the water, and the combination exerciser and shower, featuring step-pedals to power the flow of water. By this time, the bedroom washstand had given way to an elegant porcelain sink set into a marbletop with high-rise brass faucets. The smelly "water-closet" had become the china flush toilet and a source of pride.

More than simply utilitarian now, homeowners expected their bathrooms to complement the interior decor of their homes. The housewife learned to coordinate her varnished wallpaper to the rug, the curtains and even the stained glass window. 

Antique fixtures—soap dispensers, towel holders, free-standing towl racks, fancy hooks, and tumbler and toothbrush holders—all evoke a specific era in bath design. Victorian bathroom fixtures were often ornately designed, sporting gilded metals, intricate shapes, and occasionally sculpted leaves or wildlife. 

Victorian gas lamp bathroom sconce

Lighting fixtures are another option for adding a Victorian look to a bathroom. Brass was dominant material for these, as its durability and availability made it a great choice..

Early Victorian bathrooms had gas lamps out of necessity. By the second half of the 19th century, these were wall mounted. Electrical lighting fixtures didn’t appear in bathrooms until the mid 1890s, and then only in homes of the wealthy.

Architectural antique shops are the best place to find authentic antique Victorian bathroom fixtures. Some are also available online. For those that can’t be found, there are plenty of excellent reproductions available online. 

The same can be said for floor and wall coverings. Both are available in reproduction at home stores in reproduction patterns and durable materials. To get a sense of what bathrooms looked like in the second half of the 19th century, search for old photos of them online and study their contents and design.  

To read more articles on antiques, please visit the Antiques Articles section of my Web site.  And to stay up to the minute on antiques and collectibles, please join the over 30,000 readers by following my free online magazine, #TheAntiquesAlmanac. Learn more about  world's fairs in the 2020 Summer Edition, online now. And to read daily posts about unique objects from the past and their histories, like the #Antiques and More Collection on Facebook.

Pottery Marks and What They Tell Us

Mark showing pottery name, factory,
country, date, and pattern.

QUESTION: I go antiquing with a long-time friend. Inevitably, whether we’re browsing the tables at a local fleamarket or browsing in an antique shop or show, he always picks up a piece of pottery or porcelain and turns it over to see the mark. What do these marks say about the pieces besides who possibly made them? And are there any other marks from the making of the piece and what do they tell him?

ANSWER: An experienced collector of pottery can tell a lot about a piece’s origin by reading the manufacturers' marks on the bottom of each piece. These marks tell the pottery's name, its location, its company symbol, and often the pattern name or the name given to the body shape of the piece. 

Stamped mark

But there may also be other, less obvious, marks that indicate the method of production or factory flaws that show the level of quality control used by the firm. Collectors familiar with these signs can quickly distinguish between factory flaws and more serious indicators of damage and wear inflicted upon that same piece once it has left the  factory. Knowing the difference allows the experienced collector to purchase pottery with confidence.

While most manufacturer’s marks, which may he printed, incised, impressed, stamped, or applied as paper labels, usually contain the pottery’s name, initials, symbol and location---or some combination of these—some are rather sparse and may only contain a letter within a geometric shape or a crest. 

In the case of the larger firms, a pottery mark also has publicity value and shows the buyer that  a long-established company with a reputation to uphold has made a piece. Such clear name- marks include Wedgwood, Minton, Royal Crown Derby, Royal Doulton, and Royal Worcester in Britain and Bennington, McCoy, and Hull in the U.S.

Though these marks are one of the best and easiest ways to identify ceramics, the shear number of them makes it impossible to every mark. Additionally, many small firms either saw no reason to use marks or sometimes used marks that haven’t been identified because of the short life span and limited production of the company.

Metal stamped mark into clay

To the collector a pottery mark can also identify the manufacturer and help establish the approximate date of manufacture and in several cases the exact year of production, particularly in the case of 19th and 20th century wares from the leading firms which employed private dating systems. With the increasing use of ceramic marks in the 19th century, a large proportion of English and American pottery and porcelain can be accurately identified and often dated.

Pottery’s added marks to their wares in several ways. They could incise them into the soft clay before the piece air dried, in which the mark will show a slight ploughed-up effect. Potters often do this to handmade pieces. Some manufacturers of quantity pieces, such as Wedgwood, impressed a mark into the soft clay using a metal or clay stamp or seal. 

Many pottery manufacturers used painted marks—usually containing their name or initial—added over the glaze at the time of decoration. Some used stencils.

Engraved transfer printed mark

Lastly, most 19th-century pottery makers used printed marks transferred from engraved copper plates at the time of decoration, often in blue under the glaze when the main design is also underglaze blue.

Pottery marks weren’t always universally used. In 1890, President William McKinley introduced the McKinley Tariff Act that imposed tariffs on many imports, including pottery, so that American manufacturers could more easily sell their products. The Act required that all such imports show the name of country of manufacture, such as “England,” “Germany,” “Nippon,” or “France.” In 1921, an amendment to the Act required that the phrase “Made in” precede the country of origin, such as “Made in England” or “Made in Japan.” However, some foreign companies began using the phrase as early as 1898. This is a great way for collectors to date foreign-made pieces.

Underglaze marks

Beginning pottery collectors often miss marks or flaws from manufacturing and instead focus only on the maker’s mark. These marks give clues to the quality of the ceramic bodies each maker used. Potteries used different firing techniques for different grades of ceramics and the distinctive marks each technique left behind, once known, help to establish the quality of a piece.

To read more articles on antiques, please visit the Antiques Articles section of my Web site.  And to stay up to the minute on antiques and collectibles, please join the over 30,000 readers by following my free online magazine, #TheAntiquesAlmanac. Learn more about  world's fairs in the 2020 Summer Edition, online now. And to read daily posts about unique objects from the past and their histories, like the #Antiques and More Collection on Facebook.

Is Smokey Bear Still Smokin'?

Smokey Bear Jr. Forest Ranger Kit

QUESTION: As I was cleaning out my attic recently, I came across my old Smokey Bear Jr. Forest Ranger Kit. Do you know if this is collectible today?

ANSWER: Your "Smokey Bear Jr. Forest Ranger Kit," was popular with kids since its introduction in 1957. Today, it’s also a popular collectible. It came complete with a bookmark, letter from Smokey, membership car blotter, four poster stamps and a Junior Forest Ranger Certificate, all profusely illustrated, inside of a beautiful envelope. The Forest Service even included a brass-relief badge from time to time. .

The Forest Service used Bambi as their symbol first.

Created by a Madison Avenue advertising campaign in 1944, the idea of fire prevention
began during World War II when the Empire of Japan considered wildfires as a possible weapon against the United States. During the Lookout Air Raids of September 1942, the Japanese military attempted without success to set ablaze coastal forests in southwest Oregon. U.S. planners also hoped that if Americans knew how wildfires would harm the war effort, they would better cooperate with the Forest Service to eliminate any kind of fire.

So the U.S. Forest Service embarked on an advertising campaign for the prevention of forest fires. It borrowed the image of Bambi for a year until it could come up with a better symbol. But even though the campaign used Bambi on posters for a few months,  somehow he didn’t quite provide the rough and tough, firefighter image needed. The ad men decided a bear would be more appropriate and gave the job of designing him to illustrator Albert Staehle.

One of Staehle's original posters

Staehle created the Smokey character with the ranger hat and carrying a water bucket. He did four original posters of Smokey for the United States Department of Agriculture's Forest Service. The first one depicted a bear pouring a bucket of water on a campfire and saying “"Smokey Says – Care Will Prevent 9 out of 10 Forest Fires." In 1947, it became "Remember... Only YOU Can Prevent Forest Fires." In 2001, it was again updated to its current version of "Only You Can Prevent Wildfires"

After Staehle initial creation, Rudy Wendelin took over the job as his artist. For 30 years, until his retirement from the Forest Service in 1975. Wendelin endlessly drew Smokey. Later, he even designed the commemorative postage stamp released in 1984 in honor of Smokey’s 40th anniversary.

The Forest Service supposedly named the bear after Smokey Joe Martin, New York City's assistant fire chief in the 1920's. He began appearing on fire prevention posters and billboards and in countless television public service advertisements pleading with viewers to be fire-safe in the forests.

The little cub rescued in New Mexico

In the Spring of 1950, fire swept through New Mexico’s Lincoln National Forest in the Capitan Gap Fire, burning 17,000 acres. A group of soldiers from Fort Bliss, Texas, who had come to help fight the fire, discovered the badly burned bear cub and brought him back to the camp. The Forest Service decided the bear cub should be the living symbol of forest fire prevention. At first it named him Hotfoot Teddy, but he was later renamed Smokey, after the cartoon character used in the original campaign. And for the next 25 years the Forest Service used the little bear as a living reminder to Americans of the need to be careful with matches and fire in the forests.

Soon after his rescue, the Forest Service flew Smokey in a Piper Cub to the National Zoo in Washington, D.C.. A special room had been prepared for him at the St. Louis zoo for an overnight fuel stop during the trip, and when he arrived at the National Zoo, where he lived for 26 years, cheering crowds of children greeting him. Over his lifetime, he received millions of visitors as well as so many letters addressed to him—up to 13,000 a week—that the U.S. Postal Service gave him his own unique zip code in 1964. He developed a love for peanut butter sandwiches, in addition to his daily diet of bluefish and trout.

Smokey Bear poster from 1976

The Smokey Bear campaign produced an enormous amount of collectibles. This treasure trove includes everything from stuffed bears and banks to bumper stickers and books of every size and type.

Early recognizing the growing popularity of its fire fighting bear, the United States government trademarked him in 1952. This was done to insure that he would not be used in any way detrimental to his goal. It also brought in royalties, which fluctuated between $40,000 and $200,000 or more each year—money used to supplement the fire prevention budget.

Smokey Bear can be found in cloth, metal, plastic, and porcelain. Most popular are the stuffed bears. Ideal Toy Company manufactured the first one in 1952. Knickerbocker and Dakin soon followed. Teddy bears of Smokey, wearing jeans and a ranger hat, have been made in all sizes. Some were often talking toys, games, records, and drinking cups and mugs flooded the marketplace in the 1950's, 1960's, and 1970's.

Smokey Bear comic book

The first appearance of Smokey Bear in a comic book came in a 1950 release, entitled Forest Fire, by the American Forestry Association. Rudy Wendelin did the artwork. The Dell Publishing Company produced a series of eight comic books from October 1955 to August 1961. Then came Smokey Bear in 1962 by K.K. Publications for a 13-year run as part of their "March of Comics" series. And from February 1970 to March 1973, Gold Key issued 13 comic books.

In 1959, the Forest Service had Western Printing Company create a comic book, “The True Story of Smokey the Bear,” for use as an educational giveaway to youngsters. It became a popular premium for the next 10 years.

The Forest Service also handed out other premiums since the 1950's that today are quite collectible. These include the Junior Forest Ranger' badges. The agency also gave away pinback buttons with Smokey's face and the slogan, "I'm Helping Smokey Prevent Forest Fires," as well as a free coloring book, "The Blazing Forest," also printed by Western Publishing Company, as part of its "Prevent Forest Fires" campaign.

Despite the Forest Service’s campaign's success over the years, wildfire prevention remains one of the most critical issues affecting our country. And with wildfires raging in the West, Smokey's message is as relevant and urgent today as it was in 1944.

To read more articles on antiques, please visit the Antiques Articles section of my Web site.  And to stay up to the minute on antiques and collectibles, please join the over 30,000 readers by following my free online magazine, #TheAntiquesAlmanac. Learn more about  world's fairs in the 2020 Summer Edition, online now. And to read daily posts about unique objects from the past and their histories, like the #Antiques and More Collection on Facebook.

Just Who Was Josiah Spode?

QUESTION: My mother collected English Staffordshire transferware dinnerware. She passed away recently and now I have her collection which consists of plates, cups and saucers, gravy boats, sugars and creamers, and assorted other items. On the bottoms of some of these are marks saying “Spode and a number,” “Spode Stone-China,” and “Copeland Spode England.” I realize they refer to the pottery that made them, but who was Spode and what did he have to do with Copeland?

Spode Stone China

ANSWER: The name Spode on your pottery pieces refers to English potter Josiah Spode while the name Copeland refers to William Copeland, who was in the tea trade.

Josiah Spode

While English transferware is a common antique/collectible, coming in a wide variety of forms and styles, it was Josiah Spode who started it all by perfecting two techniques that made this form of pottery such a worldwide success—the technique of transfer printing in 1783 and the formula for fine bone china around 1790.

At the beginning of the 18th century, the cluster of towns in North Staffordshire, now know as the Potteries, was a series of villages, hamlets and farms. Forty or so potteries, concentrated around Burslem produced all the Staffordshire wares.

On April 9, 1749, Thomas Whieldon, a potter who was already producing early Staffordshire wares, including agate wares in variegated colors, tortoiseshell table-wares, creamwares, black basaltes and black-glazed wares, hired Josiah Spode at age 16. Spode stayed with Whieldon as a journeyman potter until about 1762, when he took the job of manager of a pottery at Stoke which produced mostly creamware and white stoneware.

Spode Creamware

By 1776 Spode had purchased his own pottery works. His first produced pottery, then porcelain, and finally a superior kind of ironstone china which was almost porcelain, which Spode invented in 1805. After some early trials, he perfected a stoneware that came closer to porcelain than any previously and introduced his "Stone-China" in 1813. It was light in body, greyish-white and gritty where it wasnt glazed and approached translucence in the early wares. Later stoneware became opaque.

Spode plate from Indian Sporting Series

By 1785 Spode had a London warehouse and showroom_He met William Copeland who was in the tea trade. Copeland opened a warehouse where the Spode wares could be displayed and offered for sale to the London "China men."

Spode’s mastery of the transfer printing process contributed to the firm’s success in the early years of the 19th century. The process, which appears to have been invented by an Irish engraver named Brooks, involved first, engraving a copper plate, then inking it and applying to it a thin tissue of paper, the impression on the paper could then he transferred to articles of any shape.

Spode Oriental Field Sports Wolf Trap

Contemporary book illustrations often inspired the decorations Spode used on his pottery. China experts consider one of Spode’s  most interesting patterns, the Indian Sporting Series, to be one of the most original in its use as a design for tableware.

In June 1805, there appeared the first of 20 monthly issues of a publication called Oriental Field Sports, Wild Sports of the East. Each included a printed story and two large aquatint prints engraved from drawings by Samuel Howitt, a distinguished animal painter. Spode adapted the engravings to his dinnerware, which depicted hunting scenes with animals and birds. Some views showed mounted hunters carrying spears with native bearers on foot.

Another popular series formed a travelogue of views in the Eastern Mediterranean. Spode based these on engravings in Mayer’s Views in Asia Minor; Mainly in Caramania, published in 1803.

Spode platter "City of Corinth" from Eastern Mediterranean Series

Spode also used illustrations from “The Castle of Boudron;" "The City of Corinth" and "Antique fragments at Lissima" in this series. He based another series on views in Italy, usually of ruins or classical landscapes, from Merigot's Views of Rome and its Vicinity,  published in 1798.

Spode's most popular series, Blue Italian

The most famous pattern was the "Blue Italian," described as Spode's masterpiece in his Blue and White series. Spode took his inspiration for this from the painting of ruins and quiet pastoral scenery by 18th-century Italian artist H.P. Pannini.

From 1800 to 1827 the mark consisted of the name Spode in printed letters, impressed, and the name of the pattern in blue, purple or red. On the stoneware the mark was "Spode, Feldspar Porcelain" or "Spode, Stone China." After this date, if the name Spode was used, it appeared as "Late Spode."

In addition to tea wares, Spode produced a variety of useful and ornamental pieces in bone china, from miniature ewers and basins and toy tea sets to richly decorated, sometimes flower-encrusted vases.

Early Spode blue and white serving platter

The factory pattern books which still exist show that Spode introduced new patterns at the average rate of about 150 year. By 1833 the pottery’s patterns numbered in the 4,000 range. Over its lifetime, the Spode Pottery produced about 75,000 patterns. Most Spode wares carry a pattern number along with the name Spode.

To read more articles on antiques, please visit the Antiques Articles section of my Web site.  And to stay up to the minute on antiques and collectibles, please join the over 30,000 readers by following my free online magazine, #TheAntiquesAlmanac. Learn more about  world's fairs in the 2020 Summer Edition, online now. And to read daily posts about unique objects from the past and their histories, like the #Antiques and More Collection on Facebook.

Carrying on a 150-Year-Old Pottery Tradition

Catawba Valley swirlware vase

QUESTION: Last Fall, I discovered several pieces of pottery with a swirl design at a local antiques show. The dealer called it Catawba Pottery but couldn’t tell me much more than it had been made somewhere in Appalachia. What can you tell me about this pottery? And where did it originate?

ANSWER: Catawba Valley Pottery describes an alkaline glazed stoneware made in the Catawba River Valley of Western North Carolina from the early 19th century to the present day.

Early Catawba pottery jar

Before modern conveniences such as electricity, plastic and refrigeration, pottery jugs. jars and crocks stored a family's perishables. A springhouse or pantry were the equivalent of the Frigidaire. Local potters were essential. When refrigeration and inexpensive glass came to the South between 1900 and 1930, the use of pottery to store food declined. However, a few potters in North Carolina's Catawba and Lincoln counties began making pottery for tourists attracted to the small stoneware pots with their distinctive alkaline glaze. The smarter potters kept their traditional pottery-making ways and shapes, but added customer-friendly swirl pitchers, miniatures, exotic vases, umbrella stands and, in a burst of creative marketing, face jugs.

Beginning with river-dug clay, potters turned milled clay on a foot-powered wheel, glazed the green-ware with a slurry of wood ashes, powdered glass, clay and water, and then fired it in a pine fueled ground hog kiln nestled against a hillside. This has been an unbroken 150-year-old tradition.



Stoneware, hard but not as brittle as earthenware, is durable, vitreous, easy to clean and non-toxic. Its strength made it ideal for the 5- to 20-gallon food storage jars needed by 19th-century farmers.

Catawba Valley potters used alkaline glazes on their wares

Catawba Valley potters used alkaline glazes in shades of brown or green instead of the commonly used salt glaze. Potters from Edgefield, South Carolina, originally brought alkaline glazes to the Catawba Valley. These potters made alkaline glazes by combining hardwood ash or crushed glass with clay and water. Catawba potters had an abundance of wood ash from burning their kilns but didn’t have plentiful salt deposits in their region.

The Catawba potters initially fired their alkaline glazed wares in what were known as "groundhog kilns." These kilns were a unique southern U.S. variation of climbing kilns built into hillsides. Semi-subterranean in construction, the groundhog kiln featured a door leading into a long, low passage of brick or rock construction, with a stack or chimney poking out of the ground up hill. Potters loaded pieces in the low passageway or "ware-bed" and built a fire in a sunken firebox, located just inside the door. The design allowed the stack to draw heated air, flames and ash through the pottery grouped inside and created the draft needed to generate the intense heat required to create stoneware. This type of firing or "burning " worked particularly well with large pieces of pottery. Contemporary Catawba Valley potters still use variations of these kilns, usually referred to as "tunnel kilns."

Pre-Civil War bulbous jug

Before the Civil War, jars from the area were bulbous with a flared top, gradual widening body, fat waist, and narrow base. After the war, jars maintained the same overall shape, but got bigger and fatter. By the 1930s, influenced by Ohio pottery jars, they became straight-walled, open top cylinders.

Jugs held all kinds of liquids from water to whiskey. During the 1920s and 1930s, Catawba potters added faces to these jugs, easily identified by their strap handle, pulled in shoulder and narrow spout. Catawba Valley potter Harvey Reinhardt was one of the first to produce this grotesque, but extremely popular form. However, potters made few face jugs until Burlon Craig, who produced thousands between the late 1940s and the present day.

Early Catawba Valley potters also made swirlware. Made by layering light and dark clays, they created a swirl pattern by moving diagonally up and around the body of a jug, jar, pitcher, birdhouse, vase, or dozens of other forms.

Burlon Craig face jug

Among the 150 to 200 potters scattered throughout the area between the late 19th and early 20th centuries, a dozen individuals and two families stand out. Neighbors Daniel Seagle and Sylvanus Hartsoe were two of the most prolific potters with signed pieces surfacing at area auctions and antique shops. The meticulous work of Samuel Propst, called 'the best turner of all" by Burlon Craig, is less frequently seen. Enoch and Harvey Reinhardt were business partners between 1932 and 1936. Many of their larger pieces, produced by Enoch, and small tourist items, Harvey's specialty, have the stamp "Reinhardt Bros,/Vale, N.C." The Propsts and Reinhardts began making blurred, mottled edged swirlware in about 1930.

Two area families also produced several generations of potters. The Ritchie family, the largest, began making pottery with Moses and ended their work, 12 potters later, at the death of Luther in 1940. Producing 10 noted potters, the Hilton family established a half dozen potteries in and around the valley. By the 1920s, they dallied in decorated dinnerware and figurines for the tourist trade which locals called "fancyware." The Hilton family pottery-making business ended in 1939 or 1940. Crisscrossing nearly all of the prominent families as an apprentice, neighbor or co-worker, is Burlon Craig. It was he who kept traditional 19th-century pottery-making alive and continuous.

To read more articles on antiques, please visit the Antiques Articles section of my Web site.  And to stay up to the minute on antiques and collectibles, please join the over 30,000 readers by following my free online magazine, #TheAntiquesAlmanac. Learn more about  world's fairs in the 2020 Summer Edition, online now. And to read daily posts about unique objects from the past and their histories, like the #Antiques and More Collection on Facebook.

Art Deco a la Francaise

French Art Deco dining chair 1925

QUESTION: Recently I purchased a set of six dining chairs that seem like they could be from the 1950s. The blond wood and the upholstery tacks used were very common back then. But I’m not so sure. The chairs were a bit more than I originally wanted to pay but they’re in great condition and go perfectly with the retro look I’m trying to create. What can you tell me about my chairs?

ANSWER: Your dining chairs are a fine example of French Art Deco. They would have been placed under an equally simple, but elegant dining table.

Art Deco emerged in Paris just before World War I as a luxurious design style. But it wasn’t until after the war in the 1920s that Modernism appeared throughout Europe. Until the art world coined the name Art Deco later on in the 1960s, designers referred to the style as Arte Moderne which is French for Modern Art.

Art Nouveau chair 1900

Art Nouveau furniture became a commercial failure. The intricate inlays and carvings made it too expensive for all except the very rich.  Concerned by competitive advances in design and manufacturing made in Germany and Austria in the early 20th century, French designers realized they could rejuvenate a their French furniture industry by producing luxurious pieces that a greater number of people could afford.

The founding in 1900 of the Société des Artistes Décorateurs (the Society of Artist-Decorators), a professional designers' association, marked the appearance of new standards for French design and production. Each year the association held exhibitions in which their members exhibited their work. In 1912, the French Government decided to sponsor an international exhibition of decorative arts to promote French design. However, they had to postpone the exhibition, originally scheduled for 1915, until after World War I.

Set at the Trocadero in Paris, near the Eiffel Tower, La Exposition Internationale des Arts Décoratifs et Industriels Modernes (International Exhibition of Modern and Industrial Decorative Arts), held finally in 1925, was a massive trade fair that dazzled more than 16 million visitors during its seven-month run. On exhibit was everything from architecture and interior design to jewelry and perfumes, all intended to promote French luxury items. With such a long name, visitors began referring to the exhibition, and subsequently the design movement, as Art Deco. On display were a wide range of decorative arts, created between the two world wars.

International Exhibition of Modern and Industrial Decorative Arts, Paris 1925

French Art Deco barrel chairs

The French Government invited over 20 countries to participate. All works on display had to be modern, no copying of historical styles of the past would be permitted. The stylistic unity of exhibits at the fair indicated that Art Deco had already become an international style by 1925.The great commercial success of Art Deco ensured that designers and manufacturers throughout Europe would continue to produce furniture in this style until well into the 1930s.

French Art Deco molded and veneered side table

In France, Art Deco combined the traditional quality and luxury of French furniture with the good taste of Classicism and the exoticism of far-off lands. Many designers used sumptuous, expensive materials like exotic hardwoods, ivory, and lacquer combined with geometric forms and luxurious fabrics to provide plush comfort. Motifs like Chinese fretwork, African textile patterns, and Central American ziggurats provided designers with the exotic designs to play with to create a fresh, modern look. They depicted natural motifs as graceful and highly stylized. The use of animal skins, horn, and ivory accents from French colonies in Africa gave pieces exotic appeal.

French Art Deco sideboard with marble top and inlaid ivory and exotic woods

French Art Deco armchair with ziggurat motif

French Art Deco furniture featured elegant lines and often had ornamentation applied to its surface. It could be utilitarian or purely ornamental, conceived only for its decorative value. It was the look that was important to many French designers, not the use or comfort of the piece. Even today, some pieces look as if their designers intended them to remain on display in a store window and not be used at all. At times it seemed as though the designers and their patrons were trying to escape the dismal reality of daily life at that time.

In 1937, the French government sponsored another trade fair, La Exposition Internationale des Arts et Techniques dans la Vie Moderne (The International Exhibition of Arts and Techniques in Modern Life). Less ambitious than the 1925 exhibition, this fair focused more on France's place in the modern world rather than on its production of luxury goods, thus marking the end of the French Art Deco Era.

To read more articles on antiques, please visit the Antiques Articles section of my Web site.  And to stay up to the minute on antiques and collectibles, please join the over 30,000 readers by following my free online magazine, #TheAntiquesAlmanac. Learn more about  world's fairs in the 2020 Summer Edition, online now. And to read daily posts about unique objects from the past and their histories, like the #Antiques and More Collection on Facebook.

As a River Flows, So Does Flow Blue

QUESTION: My mom loved collecting odd pieces of old china. She died recently and now I have her collection. Among the many pieces are some with designs that are all dark blue and blurry. Are these mistakes or are they some sort of china I’ve never heard of?

ANSWER: No, those blurry pieces are not mistakes. They’re what’s known as Flow Blue. And while many people call this type of ceramics “china,” it’s actually pottery not porcelain. Beginning in 1820, potters in Staffordshire, England, began making it as a way to provide a more affordable alternative for middle-class people who coveted the fine blue and white porcelains being imported from China. As dinnerware, it enjoyed its greatest popularity between the mid-19th century and the beginning of the 20th century. And as an antique, it has gained popularity in recent years.

Potters used cobalt oxide pigment to create the darker hue of flow blue. The porous earthenware absorbed it and blurred when the pottery glaze fired. Although it blurred by itself, potters discovered that it could be made to really flow by the addition of a cup of lime or chloride of ammonia during glaze firing. This had the additional advantage of covering over printing faults, bubbles, and other defects in the pottery. As a result, some flow blue is so blurred that all details are invisible.

Josiah Wedgwood first produced Flow Blue around 1820. But it wasn’t until 15 years later that mass production began. Since flow blue was a decidedly Victorian era phenomenon, its production fell into three time periods.—early Victorian from 1835 to 1850, mid-Victorian from   1860 to 1879, and late Victorian from 1880 to 1900. During the early Victorian period, the most popular styles imitated the Chinese porcelains. But they were largely inaccurate depictions of the Chinese designs, mixing Chinese, Arabic and Indian motifs. Scenics and florals were also  popular during this time.



The mid-Victorian period brought greater creativity to Flow Blue wares, as potters mixed styles and ornamentation became elaborate and varied. Also during the mid-Victorian period, styles began to mix and merge with one another. So, there were things like Oriental-style plates with floral, Gothic, or scenic borders. Other elaborate motifs, like scrolls, pillars, columns, urns and wreaths became quite common. The pieces themselves included toilet wares and teapots, plates and platters, vases and garden seats, and even dog bowls.

Flow blue designs of the late Victorian period exhibited a marked Art Nouveau influence, with stylized florals and beautiful symmetry.

By the end of the Victorian Era, there were thousands of Flow Blue patterns. Though most Flow Blue wares came from English potteries, those in Germany, France, Belgium, the Netherlands, and the United States all made it as well. The most noted English potteries included such names as  Wedgwood, Grindley, Davenport and the Johnson Brothers, while in the United States, Wheeling, Mercer, and Warwick. 
By World War I, U.S. potteries were producing most of the flow blue for the domestic market, causing English potters to close up shop since these wares had never been popular in England. The desirability of the ware waned in both countries between the wars, but interest picked up again in the U.S. in the 1960s.

Antique dealers determine the price of Flow Blue wares mostly based on their pattern, color, and rarity. Patterns range from Blue Danube to Iris and Classic Willow. Especially sought after ones include Amoy, Cashmere, Scinde, Shell, and The Temple, as well as the La Belle pattern by American maker, Wheeling Pottery Company.

Collectors are always on the hunt for the early patterns from the 1840s. Unusual items such as rare shapes, egg baskets and egg cups, large sized platters and early tea and coffeepots command high prices. Egg baskets with eggcups will fetch over $1,000. A single eggcup in a rare pattern can fetch over $400, whereas a not so rare one would fetch maybe $65. Rare coffeepots could he worth over $2,000, and large turkey platters from the 1890s, $600 to $800 if the pattern is right.

To read more articles on antiques, please visit the Antiques Articles section of my Web site.  And to stay up to the minute on antiques and collectibles, please join the over 30,000 readers by following my free online magazine, #TheAntiquesAlmanac. Learn more about  world's fairs in the 2020 Summer Edition, online now. And to read daily posts about unique objects from the past and their histories, like the #Antiques and More Collection on Facebook.

Basic Furniture Refinishing

QUESTION: I have a 1930's silky oak drop-door desk that has been in our shed for about 20 years.
It has seen a few cyclones and had a lot of weathering and the doors are off and knobs missing.
This desk holds special memories for me as a young child watching my dad working at it. I’d like to refinish it but have no idea where to begin. How hard would it be for a beginner like me to refinish it?

ANSWER: Your desk sounds like the ideal piece of furniture on which to learn about refinishing furniture. For many beginners, refinishing seems easy, but it’s far from it. First you need to decide if the piece needs to be completely refinished or the original finish preserved. Your desk sounds like it may fall somewhere in between.



It’s only been within the last 20 years or so that refinishing products have appeared that make the job less intimidating. However, most people think you have to strip off all the old finish before applying a new one. That all depends on the condition of the piece.

You piece sounds like it’s been through some tough times. Before you do anything, you need to evaluate it. Has the finish been mostly removed by weathering or is it spotty. If it’s the former, then you’ll need to sand it following the grain of the wood with fine to medium grade sandpaper. If it’s the latter, you may be able to just clean it up and apply a new coat of varnish. With refinishing, a little effort goes a long way. The nearer you can keep your desk to its original condition, the better.

Let’s assume the worst. If the finish has mostly been removed by weathering, you’ll need to remove what remains with a good varnish remover. Be sure to buy one that’s water soluble. Even though this takes longer to achieve the results you want, the fumes are mild and cleanup is easy. When using a remover, always brush it on with the grain of the wood. Do a little section at a time, turning the piece on end if necessary to make it easier to apply the remover. Scrap it off with a putty knife, and be sure to have a roll of paper towels handy to wipe up the excess and stripped varnish or paint.

After you’ve completely stripped your desk of its finish, lightly sand it with fine sandpaper. Wrap the sandpaper around a wooden block for support and sand with the wood grain. Be careful not to over sand----just enough to smooth the surface. After you’re finished sanding, wipe the desk with a damp cloth to remove all the dust. Do not get the wood wet.

Once you have prepared your desk for its new finish, let it rest for a day to make sure the surface is thoroughly dry. Dust it off with a dry cloth to make sure it’s clean, then begin to brush on a new finish using a soft-bristle brush and a furniture finish called tung or Chinese oil. Several manufacturers make this, including Formbys, and you should be able to buy it at your local hardware or home center. Apply the tung oil or a piece of white tube sock or other soft cotton material going with the grain of the wood.. The first coat will soak into the newly stripped wood. Let it dry 24 hours, then sand lightly with fine sandpaper. Dust it with a damp cloth again and let dry. Apply a second coat of the tung oil and repeat the process, except this time rub it with 0000 steel wool after it dries. Dust off again and apply a third and final coat of tung oil, but don’t rub with the steel wool this time.



The advantage to using tung oil is its rapid drying capability. Though it will feel dry to the touch in an hour or so, be sure to let it thoroughly dry for 24 hours. And don’t apply it on a humid or rainy day. And here's a tip: Wrap your application cloth in plastic wrap or put it into a Zip-Loc sandwich bag and place it in your freezer. Take it out 30 minutes before you're ready to apply another coat, and it will be ready for you.

Be sure to tune in next week to learn about preserving the finish of a piece of furniture that isn’t in such bad shape.

To read more articles on antiques, please visit the Antiques Articles section of my Web site.  And to stay up to the minute on antiques and collectibles, please join the over 30,000 readers by following my free online magazine, #TheAntiquesAlmanac. Learn more about  world's fairs in the 2020 Summer Edition, online now. And to read daily posts about unique objects from the past and their histories, like the #Antiques and More Collection on Facebook.